Following the win of the 2000 World Cup climbing championship and the On-sight 5.14a record, the 33-year-old rock climbing superstar Yuji Hirayama once again set a new record in rock climbing history - climbing to U.S. The two difficult routes of Yosemite (El Capitan): Salathe (5.13b) and Nose (5.13c).
First, Salathe Wall:
As early as 1997, Yuji had set a world record of On-Sight and the freedom to climb Salathe. This difficult course, 870 meters long and 35 pitches, had first been climbed artificially by Robbins, Pratt and Frost in 1961. The first ascent for free climbing was Todd Skinner and Paul Pinna. In August of this year, American player Tommy Caldwell set a 19.5-hour climb to Salathe's record after the relapse of the severed finger (Tommy did not use a chainsaw to cut the middle finger in 2001 because of a rock-saw), but it was only a month later. The record was once again cleared by Yuji. Yuji took 13 hours to complete the climb and was 6.5 hours less than Tommy.
Second, The Nose:
After setting a new record for Salath, Yuji’s ambition was not satisfied and he set a record a few days later to climb the Nose. The Nose is another difficult route next to Salath, 870 meters high, 31 pitches, 5.13c. The earliest free climber was Lynn Hill (1993), and the fastest climbing record was created by Potter and O'Neill last year at 03:24:30. At 9:15 on September 29th, Yuji and the two The X-Games speed champion Hans Florine of the United States set a world record of 02:48:55. This is the 46th time Hans climbs up to Nose, but in order to help his friends make new records, this is followed by Yuji Pioneer and Hans.
Third, postscript
After the United States Chris Shama hit the 5.15a first climb and France's Alexandre Chabot set a record for the fifth consecutive World Cup, more and more rock climbers around the world are actively working hard to break through these records! Dave Ghram, the first American player to climb the 5.14 route, is currently in Ceuse, France, and is trying to become the second runner-up of Realisation; Steve Maclure in the UK and Christian Binderhammer in Germany have been successful on-sight 5.14a; South Korean player Son Sang-Won set a record in the history of rock climbing in Korea and climbed Biography (5.14c), the lower half of Realisation. These records will undoubtedly become the driving force and goal of the development of the rock climbing, let us look forward to the next unknown new record!
Yi De 2002/10/05
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Rock climbing is divided into two categories based on device usage:
1) Aid climbing means pulling directly or standing on an artificial fulcrum. Artificial fulcrums include ladders, ladders, rock plugs, and hooks. The benefits of climbing equipment can be a difficult route, and climbers have little physical relationship. Most BIG WALLs are device climbers.
2) Free-climbing or free-climbing equipment is entirely used for protection. The purpose is to minimize the consequences of climbers who have had a mistake. The goal of liberalism is to use a natural fulcrum to complete a course by the ability of the climber. Many routes that had previously only been able to climb were "free" after free climbing. This year, C.Anker tried to climb the second step of the northern slope of Everest (without the aluminum ladder). But without success, he rested his feet on the aluminum ladder. Although freestyle allows the protection of equipment, it naturally drops as little as possible.
The freestyle is subdivided according to the climbing style:
A) on sight, that is, only to look at the bottom and then did not fall down once, did not try or drill, did not slide the rope from the top to study the route carefully, even if there is no key point to listen to others. The best explanation that can be onsight is the foundation of the climber's ability. It embodies the direct contest between "human to stone". Yuji Hirayama was on sight of the Salathe Wall. Prior to this, most people climbed up with equipment. There were two teams that performed the exercises to free the Salathe Wall, but it was called red point.
The red point is to allow this route to be practiced, allowing unlimited fall, but at least once you can climb from the bottom to the top and never fall (and of course you haven't stepped on the artificial fulcrum). Redpoint A route that illustrates the climber’s ability to climb as high as possible. Note that the red point is for the vanguard to climb and put the middle protection on itself. (The red point allows you to fall multiple times when you try to complete a previous exercise.) If the route has been put up for a quick hike, it's easier for the smooth pioneer to climb up and call it "pink point."
In the magazine, it is common to have someone with a pink point difficulty approaching the limit. After coming down and not returning to the ground, it is considered bad style to hang around on the rope and return to the fallen place. It is called "hang dog" or "dog". Note that "not falling down" is included when it is not found. Climb down on your hands and feet and rest afterwards. It is not called on sight, not even red point, on the course of protecting the former pioneer vanguard, no matter if it falls or falls.
According to whether there are peers: whether there is no equipment, there is a group of peers. Do not use peer protection to call solo. Free solo is not literally "freestyle single", but freestyle single without protection. Flash does not seem to have strict and standard words like on-sight and red point.
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