The level of equipment climbing is the same standard all over the world - A1 to A5 (Australia uses the M0-M8 system. M stands for mechanical, ie machine equipment). The route marked by C1-C5 indicates that the cleanaidcliming must be maintained, and auxiliary equipment can only use rock plugs so that no scars are left on the rocks. Sometimes, the route that must maintain the original appearance is also based on the A0-A5 system. If a mountaineering route is based on the C0-C5 system, it is hoped that later climbers will respect the established tradition and try to keep the original appearance of the route. In fact, to put aside climbing methods and concepts, the C system and the A system are exactly the same in terms of difficulty.
Unfortunately, there are many explanations for this standard. Generally speaking, the level of a certain place always depends on the record at the time of the first completion...
The general situation is also a more traditional way of saying that the development of equipment climbing grades complies with:
A1: The placement of all stress points is simple and reliable.
A2: The placement of all stress points is fairly reliable, but the operation process is a bit difficult and awkward.
A3: The placement of many stress points is not reliable, but there are often reliable protection points.
A4: Individually continuous can not withstand stress points greater than the weight load.
A5: Above 20 meters in succession, a large number of unreliable stress points.
In Europe, most of the equipment routes were completed long ago. Some of the difficulty levels of these routes have already been downgraded. In short, the placement of A3 protection points is not reliable, but it can withstand short-range fall. A4 will have some protection points that can only withstand the weight, but it is not uncommon for them to appear continuously. A5 has not heard of it. And A0 is used to define those routes that have a permanent, solid protection point.
In the United States, modern equipment and passion drive people to continuously climb higher and higher walls. In the incredible short period of ten years, equipment climbing has been pushed to the extreme. It also changed the interpretation of the grading standards. This is explained by John Long and John Middendorf in the BigWall book on the criteria for modern equipment climbing standards:
A0: Hang on the equipment, step on the rock cone, and climb on something like a rock plug. There is no need to use a ladder, but it cannot be called "free climbing." Maybe it can be called "French free climbing."
A1: Simple climb. The placement of force points is simple and firm, and each one can withstand falling.
A2: Moderate climb. Strong but often difficult to place good stress points. There will be one or two unreliable stress points above a firm stress point. Falling posture is not dangerous.
A2+: Moderate climb. There will be more unreliable stress points on a firm stress point. There is a possibility of serious fall, but generally nothing major.
A3: Difficult climb. A number of consecutive unreliable stress points must each be tested before loading the weight. Although there are several reliable points in each pitch, they are few and far apart. In the fall, there will be more than eight stress points that may fall off, which is a little dangerous. It takes a few hours to complete a pitch.
A3+: A3, but it can be dangerous if it falls.
A4: Difficult climb. Most stress points do not stand up to weight and at the same time have serious consequences if they fall. It is not uncommon to continue climbing 10-15 meters from a reliable stress point.
A4+: A very difficult climb. The stress points are always very marginal and each pitch is like this and it takes many hours to complete.
A5: Extremely difficult climb. There is no single point in the pitch that is trustworthy. There is no one bolt in all pitches.
A6: Even the anchor between the pitches cannot withstand the fall. If a person falls, the team will parachute. All those who have experienced A6 are not sound, and so far there is no neuropathy that can make a reliable report.
The explanation in the Mountain Biblical (Sixth Edition) is not much different from what is described in the book BigWall:
A0: There are fixed guards on the route.
A1: Assist equipment is easy to set up, and each device is sufficient to stop the potential. Usually just grab the fixed equipment to climb.
A2: The installation site is quite satisfactory, but it is sometimes difficult to install. There may be a few bad spots between the ideal installation locations.
A2+: In addition to the increased likelihood of a fall (it may be as deep as 20 to 30 inches), the rest is the same as A2.
A3: It is difficult to install auxiliary equipment. People who lead the team on a pitch may have to climb for several hours. They may fall 60 to 80 times in depth, but do not fall to the ground or seriously injured. Must actively test the equipment fastness or not.
A3+: Same as A3, but it is very likely to be seriously injured when falling. It is extremely difficult to install auxiliary equipment.
A4: Auxiliary equipment must not be taken lightly. It may be as deep as 80 to 100 feet when it falls, and it may fall on the treacherous terrain. The equipment only supports the weight of the body.
A4+: The situation is even worse than A4. The route must stay longer and the danger increases.
A5: The auxiliary devices on the entire pitch can only support the weight of the body, and there is no firm protection such as bolts. If the leading team member on the A5 level falls, it will drop by 300 feet.
A5+: This is the level that exists in theory; the situation is the same as in A5, but all the guarantee points are not solid. If it falls, it is definitely going all the way until it falls.
It seems that the evaluation of the climbing equipment and evaluation of free climbing routes is different. The level of the mountaineering route that must be assisted by the auxiliary equipment shows how easy it is to install protective equipment and whether the protection device is firm or not. In fact, it is a measure of the degree of danger. And by reading the above assessment criteria, there seems to be the following inference:
1 All routes climbing using equipment should have a condition that no one has successfully completed this route.
2 Difficulty evaluation is based on the difficulty of each climbing process and the size of the risk. With the update of equipment, the emergence of fixed protection points can be downgraded.
3 As far as possible, the principle of maintaining the original appearance of the rock wall should be used when climbing. No additional permanent protection points may be added when repeating the previous route.
4 In addition to A6, at least the anchor point between each pitch is still safe.
5 The desperado is the promoter of this way of climbing.
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