During the upsurge of conquering the 8000-meter peak between 1950 and 1964, due to the interests of the country, the whole country, such as Britain, France, Italy, the United States, Japan, and Germany, hoped that their mountaineers would first reach the summit. The best mountaineers in various countries are equipped with the best equipment to represent their own people to go mountain climbing. After the mid-1960s, this concept of mountaineering was no longer associated with national interests. At the same time, the country will not invest so much money in mountaineering. We must find our own financial resources to realize our dreams. Fortunately, the business community and the press have begun to be interested in large-scale mountaineering activities. If you look at the object and work hard, it is not too difficult to find sponsorship for climbing. For me, spending money sponsored by others to go hiking is more peace of mind.
The Himalayas are far less accessible than the Alps. After entering the mountains, we need the rules of a process that we gradually adapt to for several weeks. Today, it may be possible to reach the last town in front of the mountain by helicopter. However, from here to the base camp, it is still necessary to rely on the two feet. It is unfavorable and even dangerous for the helicopter to reach the base camp directly by helicopter. If you want to climb, start from the low point. Gradually adapting is an important step in body regulation. Since 1970 I have maintained the habit of walking into the mountains. Even the pace of walking has not changed. My only change over the past 16 years has been the growing love of mountaineering.
When I first entered the Himalayas in 1970, I followed all the traditional climbing methods. At Nanjia Parbat, we climbed upwards in a routine and awkward manner. We surveyed, built roads, and pulled ropes. Each section of the road must be raised and lowered several times. Then we build a camp to store food, thanks to a strong logistic support team. I climbed to the top. And it was on the summit twice: for the first time it was myself, and the second time it was with my younger brother. In the five years since then, I have used this traditional way of climbing until I had the ideas and techniques to change this way. When I started my career as a mountaineer, I had to fight for a roll of sponsorship. So I could only carry out low-cost climbing activities. This forced me to consider changing the conventional high-cost climbing methods. So I leaned back in the Himalayas for my alpine-style mountaineering for the Alps. If I can escalate and build my own high-altitude camp, I don't need high mountain haulers. If I don't use porters, I don't need to spend a lot of energy and money on them. I can climb more effectively. Unconsciously, I gradually realize that if I want to go higher, I must install lightly. Reduce people and things. Like many industrial and commercial enterprises that sometimes have to cut down on certain “indispensable†employees, I have to do the same. For me, not using porters, using less technical equipment is more equitable than mountaineering that depends on technical equipment. reasonable.
I did not use oxygen equipment when climbing all the 8000-meter peaks. When I was climbing, I never used an expanding rock cone that would leave marks on the cliffs. This is the principle I followed when I started climbing in the Alps. The expansion of the rock cone can be fixed, reducing the risk, but I think that using the expansion rock cone is cheating. In 1978 I knew I could get oxygen up to 8500, but I didn't go to board. I want to try, my own strength, and how much it can climb without relying on other instruments. As a person, not a manipulator, I want to expand the so-called "insurmountable limit."
Today, when I look back on the nights and nights in the Himalayas in the past 16 years, I can't forget the moments I could barely hold; I can't forget the fear of those 8,000-meter peaks; I can't forget my doubts about my abilities. How did you torture me? This 16 years is a year of sweat and hard work. In order to overcome danger and to survive, I must train with persistence and concentration; these 16 years are the repetition of failures and restarts. These are the keys to my success.
In the year of 1982, I successfully climbed three 8,000-meter peaks. After this I made the decision to climb all the peaks above 8000 meters in the world. But I need to do more than just summit. In 1984 I achieved the peak of Gashubru and two peaks. This is more important for me than to summit all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks. I am not climbing for the summit, but for the idea of ​​pushing myself to the limit. Due to time constraints, I climbed from Makalu and Lhotse from the traditional route, but I also set a record on the traditional route: the two climbed the two peaks for the first time in a mountaineering season. Other mountaineers tried to do it, but none succeeded.
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