Medical care
Overview
For tablets, some people like it and some people hate it. We are somewhere in between. Although people have different opinions, we still recommend some medicines that have proved to be worth introducing. Remember that we are not doctors. The following is just a summary of some of our personal experiences.
Before you set out, it's best to discuss your adventure plan with a doctor and ask him to do the appropriate checks and drugs for you. In fact, few doctors have a good understanding of high altitude diseases, and you may need to guide them. Again, it is described in detail in James AWilkerson's "Medicine for Mountaineering" and Jonathan Waterman's "Surviving Denali". These two books are of great help to us. The following chapters even we copy it and take it with you.
diarrhea
Going to the toilet is a complicated and cold bitter thing in the climbing process. You have to put on thick clothes, walk a certain distance (at least in that case it looks like this), skip some cold rock and do what you have to do in the absence of privacy. .
This is still lucky enough for you in BC. It is even more troublesome in higher camps. Needless to say, if you are miserable, it will be a terrible experience. In the long ice slopes, it is always very memorable to be on the ropes.
In 1997, a climber died while C3 slipped conveniently. In C3, remember to tie yourself to the rope at any time, even if it is a short distance away.
Everest is not a place for frequent toilets. Antibiotics will be your good friend. Dysentery will cause dehydration and disrupt mineral balance, so drink plenty of water and add supplemental electrolytes.
Since diarrhea is so painful in the mountains, sometimes you have to resort to "Immon to stop" to stop. But you have to be careful with the help of drugs. They prevent your body from removing harmful bacteria through excretion and will affect your digestive ability within a few days. So try to use Yimeng stop or similar drugs as much as possible.
Kubu Ganke
This dry cough makes you very weak. The dry, cold air makes you cough almost every step or two. You will become slower and weaker. If it is not treated, it will spread to the lungs and cause pulmonary edema.
The best preventive measure is to wear a mask that will allow the air to become warm and moist. We wear masks at all times, even on foot to the base camp. Since we started using masks, we haven't suffered from coughing for 3 years.
Usually we use masks for cross-country skiing. Face masks typically incorporate a layer of metal mesh in a lightweight plastic or fabric shell. If you cannot buy it, you can order it directly from Switzerland. We can tell you the specific address by email. This mask was originally invented for the Finnish Olympic Ski Team and is very effective.
If you are suffering from a cough, codeine is an effective drug. The best treatment is to descend to an altitude of 4000 meters above sea level for a few days until the symptoms are eliminated. If the cough spreads to the lungs, you need to take antibiotics.
Heartburn Hearts
Heart palpitations are commonplace at high altitudes. Zantac (who knows the correct Chinese?) or similar medication can help relieve symptoms, especially at night.
Shanghai Shanyou Fangliang added:
Zantac (who knows the correct Chinese?)
Glaxo's new drug, ranitidine, with no Chinese name!
drug
antibiotic
There are different antibiotics for different types of infections. The negative effect of antibiotics will affect your climbing status. In addition, antibiotics will also kill the beneficial bacteria in your intestines, thus affecting your ability to resist unclean food. However, antibiotics are very effective against Kubu dry cough, dysentery and infection.
aspirin
Many climbers like to use it for mountain headaches. The best way is to drink plenty of water as recommended above until the headache disappears. Headache is a good measure of your body's moisture balance. Taking aspirin simply eliminates the alarm your body is trying to send you: it needs liquid!
Last year, during the period of adapting to altitude, we boarded C1, then went directly to C2 and stayed there for 10 days. It is only because we have diverted water.
We do take aspirin sometimes to eliminate nighttime breathing irregularities. Aspirin is a drop in blood consistency that seems to help the circulation. However, you should treat it as an aid to the body - do not rely on it to solve the problem of hypo fluid and possible acute mountain reaction.
Tylenol acetaminophen may have a lesser effect on the digestive system than aspirin, but it is not as effective as aspirin in reducing blood consistency!
Hypnotics
We don't use this kind of medicine because they will stop breathing at night!
A medical study shows that for climbers, the benefits of good sleep are more valuable than the side effects of sleep aids. So some climbers are accustomed to taking these medicines and are always on the side of the climb.
We feel that irregular breathing at that height is dangerous, so we still don't recommend sleeping pills. However, last night's sleepless night at C3 caused us not to be too sure about this issue.
Tina hadn't been able to sleep because she was tortured by the technical problems we encountered the first time we tried to report online on that night. Obviously, for the upcoming 30 hours of sleeplessness, including 20 hours of difficult summits, this is by no means a good news. However, she eventually found strength and quickly. Insomnia is not as physically weakening as you might imagine.
But today, when I think about it back, she thinks that if some of the less active sleep aid drugs were available, it might be better.
High Mountain Emergency
Epipen
These adrenal hormone injections are usually useful for anaphylactic shock or acute asthma. They are life-saving straws in the mountains and they can be deadly killers! If you are caught in extreme physical exhaustion, adrenaline may inspire you some strength and hopefully enough to go downhill. However, it may be equivalent to giving your heart a strong blow. Obviously, adrenal hormones are definitely the last measure for the worst case for a climber! Only then can it be used. Don't touch it at any other moment! We always bring these injections, but thankfully they have never had to use them. (Note that the inspection period and minimum storage temperature)
Diamox
An emergency medicine can sometimes be used to help adapt to high altitudes. It helps increase the blood's pH. The increase in blood's acidity is due to the fact that breathing is faster and deeper, resulting in lower blood carbon dioxide levels. Diamox helps to sleep at night (to avoid irregular breathing), which helps improve the day's state. We used it at McKinley, causing it to urinate almost every 30 minutes, tingling the fingertips and tiptoes, and we gave up after a few days. Diamox does not help you. Calm climbing and drinking plenty of water make it the right way to fight high altitudes. We carry Diamox just for rescue needs!
Decadron
This steroid drug can only be used in emergency situations. It must be withdrawn immediately at the same time because Decadron only eliminates the symptoms of mountain sickness but it does not cure. If you don't want to die, don't rely on it during the climb. But just prepare for emergency situations, or bring it (tablets and injections).
Nifedipine
Another emergency medication, suitable for pulmonary edema, is taken immediately after taking it down! We were told that Nifedipine should be slowly digested and absorbed under the tongue! Confirm with your doctor.
Gamowbag Gamma Bag
Gamma bags are really useful when a hiker or climber suffers from pulmonary edema or cerebral edema. Its effect is equivalent to an immediate drop of 2,000 meters. Within a few hours, it may be the difference between life and death. It is equivalent to a diving tank pressurized by a foot pump. The Himalayan Rescue Association has one in Perouche and usually has at least one in Base Camp. If your team does not plan to bring your own, it is also possible to rent one. Retail prices are around $4,000.
oxygen
Use any acute mountain disease when it occurs! Flow control is 2 to 3 liters or less per minute. Excessive flow can cause poisoning. Above C2, a bottle of emergency spare oxygen is prepared for every 2-3 people.
other
Talk to your doctor about dosages, types of medicines, other cough medicines, stuffy nose, frostbite fracture analgesics, and other medicines. Also, don't forget to bring Bondi, iodine, preservatives, water tablets, bandages, and other first aid equipment.
It is advisable to inject some necessary vaccines in advance and it is advisable to participate in first aid training (the Red Cross Society organizes such courses). It is better to take some iron supplements for women, and choose those that can be easily absorbed by the body. Compound vitamins and sunscreen can help prevent frostbite.
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