| Translated: Climbing Tech Tips 210 Author: Neil Gresham compile: Zhang Qing Dynamic action involves a lot of uncertainty, we need to pay attention to so many aspects: speed, accuracy, contact time and so on, which often makes us afraid of when we need the most confidence. However, there are indeed people who are simply rubber-like, full of elasticity, and can easily perform seemingly inconceivable dynamic actions. Below, maybe their secret lies. Drive with legs, arms control direction Don't just use your arms to force, big dynamic movements are driven by your strong leg muscles. At the beginning, the center of gravity is low, so as to bring about the greatest impact momentum. Arms are used to assist and control the direction. Try to coordinate the leg propulsion and arm pull to become an overall burst action (see figure below). Two visual positionings are required before take-off Your brain needs two different locations of visual reference points for accurate positioning. Look at the target point, and then sink into focus, then quickly scan the target point, then immediately jump. Study Bruce Lee, Use Body Intuition Bruce Lee said: "Don't think about it, feel like it." When you complete dynamic actions that are difficult, you rely not on conscious thinking but on the body's natural muscle movement. Don't stop there and look at the target point, don't hesitate and doubt, try bravely. The trajectory is curved The common mistake in dynamic action is to focus most of your attention on how to move up. The result was a long distance away from the rock wall after jumping up. Don't make this kind of simple mental illness. Imagine that your body and target point are connected by an arc, so that the body's center of gravity moves along this arc, and there is an outward move away from the rock wall and back to the rock wall again. the process of. Do not rehearse too many times Move up and down quickly to help prepare for a long-span dynamic movement. But don't repeat it. Repeated ups and downs will waste muscle power, and the longer the delay, the more prone to hesitation and suspicion. Understand the status of the target To be fully confident, you need to understand where you are going. For routes that don't already have ONSIGHT or FLASH opportunities, you can come down from the top and carefully touch and observe the target point. You need to know exactly where it is; what angle or orientation is best to grasp; what will it feel when you grab it from below. After understanding this, go down and start your dynamic exercises. Have enough speed Successful dynamic actions require sufficient speed. However, some people may not have good coordination in this area and may have less muscle fibers that can be rapidly retracted. In short, they seem to be born not fast enough. This situation can be improved by not using foot bouldering exercises, deliberately focusing on acceleration rather than maximum weight training of the equipment, and exercising only the upper and lower fingerboards, etc. Of course, doing a lot of dynamic actions is also very effective. Develop more dynamic climbing styles Try to make your climb more dynamic. If the next point is better, even if you can get it statically, use dynamic actions. This is more useful than special exercises for specific actions. Most people's style of climbing is too static, obviously can fly easily enough to reach the big point, it is also necessary to maintain control, full lock, wasting a lot of effort. In practice, you will find that dynamic action is not the last choice when it comes to helplessness. It is often a more efficient way. June 2003 Translation Original source: v7plus.com |
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