At 10:00 AM Eastern Time on February 7 (11 PM Beijing time last night), the Chinese sports brand first appeared on the stage of New York Fashion Week.
This time, Li Ning was able to represent China.
The American Fashion Designers Association (CFDA) and Tmall launched Tmall China Day at the New York Fashion Week. In addition to Li Ning, Chinese brands that have landed at the New York Fashion Week have also successfully transitioned to fast-fashioned Taiping Bird, CLOT headed by Edison Chen, and independent street fashion brand Chen Peng known for down jackets.
â–²New York Fashion Week and Tmall launched Tmall China Day.
“We set up an internal selection mechanism, experienced brand registration, preliminary selection, and then screened for the requirements of the brand according to New York Men's Week. The Committee finally confirmed the four brands for this election. They are most representative of China. The consumer market of different consumer classes is also the most representative of current Chinese fashion,†said Liu Xiuyun, General Manager of Tmall Clothing, to The Business of Fashion.
Li Ning also tried to exert the concept of "China." The hoodies and T-shirts with the words “China Li Ning†will become the core products of this catwalk show. The "China Li Ning" visual design inspired by China's emperor Yu Xie replaces the traditional Li Ning trademark. In particular, the restoration of VICTOR001, this is the Chinese Olympic delegation in the 1992 Olympic Games in Barcelona, ​​and is also the first time that Chinese athletes put on domestic brands to enter the Olympics podium.
â–² Li Ning restores VICTOR001.
"This is a concrete embodiment of Li Ning's glory and championship spirit, and it is also the core of the entire show," Li Ning Chief Designer Chen Lijie of New York Fashion Week expressed to lazy bear sports.
In the loss of the status of the leader of China's largest sports brand, Li Ning, who has entered the 30th year, hopes to declare on this stage that Li Ning is still able to represent China.
Before Christmas last year, Li Ning learned that he will be on New York Fashion Week. Chen Lijie and nine other designers were responsible for the Li Ning's catwalk show. 120 clothing and 15 pairs of sports shoes finally appeared in the show.
"Enlightenment" has become the theme of this show, and Chen Lijie said that this represents Chinese wisdom. The two parts of "the realization of the mind" and "the realization of the type" pay tribute to the classics and indicate the future direction of the movement.
In the retro series, Li Ning's own victory, Li Ning cross, the classic moment in the ring also became a T-shirt pattern. “We looked at Mr. Li Ning like a kind of clothes. He was very excited. He was very open and thought that these photos and classic moments were the cultural assets of the company,†said Chen Lijie.
In the modern product line, the most popular street functional style, trend culture and function in the current sports products have become the three themes.
Regardless of the classic engraved or interpretation of sports fashion trends, Li Ning's intention is very clear - to show Li Ning's new brand image. "Everybody's impression of Li Ning stays in the old sneakers. We took out these things. Everyone was very surprised. Now Li Ning is in this state," said Zhou Shijie, chief designer of Li Ning shoes.
Just as the other product line was named "renewed", Li Ning is eager to re-awaken consumers' memories of the brand.
â–² Li Ning selected "rebirth" in more than 20 names.
“We have to go through the fashion week to let Li Ning return to the brand image of representative status, high-end quality and fashionable fashion. This is a brand return,†said Chen Lijie.
In the 90s of last century, Li Ning was a leading Chinese sports brand. More importantly, Li Ning created a Sneaker culture and became a representative of Chinese high-end brands and original designs.
However, under the chase of the Jinjiang Department, Li Ning lost the sponsorship rights of the Chinese Olympic Committee's partners in 2009. After that, Li Ning’s efforts to reshape its brand image, change its trademark and slogan, and internationalize its layout also suffered a severe setback, coupled with an inventory crisis. Li Ning’s performance plummeted and made losses for three consecutive years. Until the reforms began in 2012, Li Ning himself returned to the company and Li Ning turned profitable in 2015.
According to the third quarter 2017 results report, Li Ning’s offline channel sales unit number dropped, and the recovery is not smooth.
However, Li Ning's core competitiveness is still in place. At the end of last year, Li Ning's ultra-light 13th generation running shoes won the Red Star Award, becoming the first sports brand to collect the German Red Dot, German IF, the United States IDEA, China Red Star Award four domestic and international design awards. Up to now, many consumers still remember the feelings of Li Ning that year.
This is why Li Ning today needs to use such a catwalk to make the brand image more clear and emphasize its own uniqueness.
In addition, the appearance in New York is to some extent a retest of the international market.
“Our goal is to help support emerging Chinese designers, help them gain more international exposure, and display mature Chinese brands and provide them with channels to achieve international growth,†Liu Xiuyun told The Business of Fashion.
â–² Li Ning hopes to gain the attention of the international market.
At present, Li Ning has business in 44 countries and regions around the world, and also through Ali AliExpress and Amazon's overseas e-commerce. "This wave of communication is rekindling the confidence of the people of the country in Li Ning products. We first do a good job in the Chinese market, but we will never give up overseas," Li Ning, director of public relations Xu Zhuoling said to lazy bear sports.
On the day of "China Day" on February 7, Li Ning and other Chinese brands had three exclusive launch periods, which were displayed at Skylight Modern, the official venue of New York Fashion Week. During the period from February 5-10, a "China Day" exhibition hall was opened in New York City for international buyers to observe and purchase.
The fact that Li Ning came to the New York Fashion Week is also at a time when China is making major arrangements for the fashion industry at a critical stage of consumer upgrading. Fujian Septwolves won the controlling stake in Karl Lagerfeld Greater China last year. Shandong Ruyi Group is seeking to inject funds into Bally. Fosun International recently negotiated with Italian high-end underwear brand La Perla.
Naimika Singh, a BMI consumer analyst, said that as China invests in European luxury goods and fashion brands, Chinese consumers’ consumption of apparel and footwear will continue to grow. The company’s research predicts that between 2018 and 2022, the average annual consumption growth rate of China’s footwear products will reach 10%.
In this context, China has begun to integrate more into the global mainstream fashion system, and Chinese brands have naturally gained more international attention.
The boundaries of fashion have also been continuously broken in recent years, and cross-border joint names have become a trend. Sports is one area in which this trend is most closely combined with fashion. Li Ning, who has a place in the trend culture circle, also got a fashion brand identity.
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