There is no doubt that rope is the most important thing. It is the only one. Select ropes in the following order:
A. Dynamic ropes and static ropes: In projects where there is a possibility of power falling, it is necessary to use ropes such as: rock climbing, climbing, descent, bungee jumping (If you have a good rope, you can try Try, then fallfactory=1). At this point, the extension of the rope absorbs energy. Static rope refers to a rope with a stretchability of 0 (approximate). Used for caving, high-altitude operation, upstream, SRT, etc. Must not be used for climbing. The power rope is a flower rope, and the static rope is a white rope.
B. Motive rope points: singlerope, doublerope, twinrope
Single rope refers to ropes that can be used individually and individually. The general diameter of 9.5-11mm, usually used in peacetime, the best choice for a 10-10.5, optional 9.5-9.7 mountaineering, BEAL new to achieve a 9.4mm. Lighter than 10.5 full 1kg. Think of your mountaineering When you need to back up 5 ropes. However, in combination with CLIMBERS's national conditions, it is generally better to use 10.5, and there are fewer than 9 points of UIAAAFALLS. Generally everyone is a rope, rock climbing, ice climbing, bigwall, climbing, caving, or rough and durable. However, if climbing, it is recommended to buy a less than 10. There is a feeling on the mountain
Double rope fingers must use two ropes at the same time to insert different protection points. Diameter 8-9mm. Ice climbing, mixed, bigwall, technical climbing. Imagine if the two of you climbed a 100-meter rock wall, the vanguard climber got a small stone, and he would wrestle with a knife on the rope, as did the ice-climbing. Both of you are at a height of 50 meters but mv=Ft. When the falling height is fixed, mv is certain; F depends on time, the better the ductility of the rope, the longer the effective protection rope length, the longer the buffering time, F is smaller; from the previous knowledge: F<=12kN, and F is smaller The better.
About the selection and use of ropes in climbing
1. The ductility of the rope is strictly required, not the bigger the better. Now the most common single rope is between 7-8%. If you read my later articles, you should know that the master rope and the power rope are two concepts. Rope can be used as a rope and static rope. Static rope is a different color, such as red, black, but less used in climbing. To make a drop, I think that as a drop, it is not good to make a rising power rope. The simplest reason is that the ductility absorbs the falling energy and also absorbs the rising energy. SRT, engineering, special police and many other static ropes are used.
2. Be careful of the ductility of the power cord, but most of the danger is that it hits the rock wall and there is very little on the ground.
3. In fact, if you understand the principle, you know that the static rope can be "TOPROPE". But I would not recommend it. I have not seen any foreign photos with static ropes in the hall. At least the ropes specifically designed for indoor climbing halls are motive ropes. It's still not good for the body. Occasionally it is OK. Perhaps because the motive rope is half as expensive as a static rope. (Static rope cannot fall more than 1.2 meters)
4.GRIGRI: First of all, it should be stated that these things can be divided into two purposes: 8 words can be protected and reduced, and snow and ice can be used less; ATC can only protect, and snow and ice can work well and can take double ropes; GRIGRI can be used, only Rope; STOP can only fall, rope range; RACK caving use, can adjust the speed of decline and can let go. All kinds of specific issues will not be discussed. First of all, remember only one thing: from the power of protection: 8 words simple Rao method <8 standard Rao method = ATC <single-loop knot *** height contains risks! ! ! The theory should be clear before practice. At least the basic concepts should be clear. You do not have a second chance!
A few basic concepts:
A. UIAA stipulates that the maximum impact force that a person can withstand cannot be greater than 12 kN. More than it may cause damage to the body or die. This is the most fundamental figure, ropes, iron locks, slings, etc. are almost all subject to force requirements. roll out)
B.fallfactory: Whether the fall coefficient of a fall is a serious fall is not a drop height. A 20m drop is not necessarily more dangerous than a 2m drop. Drop factor = drop height / effective protection rope length The energy of a fall is absorbed by the extension of the rope (what would you think of if you helped a wire jump from a height of 2 meters?)
C. Unless you are carrying goods, try to develop a habit of playing 8 knots when you are on the move. In the knotted place, it is the weakest place (the rope cuts itself from the phase). Where the knot passes, the strength is reduced by one-half and the eight-word is reduced by one-third.
D. ropes must have UIAA (worldwide); Europe's TECHNICALEQUIPMENTS must have CE; seat belts do not necessarily have UIAA; iron locks must have UIAA; North American seat belts are only manufacturer's standards. At the same time, qualified products are not necessarily suitable products. 460 points and 90 points are not the same. Only UIAA cannot judge the quality of the product.
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